Getting
the Bigguns!
with "Jim's Fishing Charters"
@ Tahsis,
Vancouver Island
Chapter
Three : by
Zenwaiter : All Rights Reserved/
2005
Driving west from Campbell River to Gold River through
Strathcona Park.
The drive from Toquart Bay, close to Uclulet on the
west coast of Vancouver Island, to Tahsis, would take about ten hours.
I left Toquart Bay around 3 pm, and arrived at Gold River at about
9 PM
The route took me first to Port Alberni, through Coombs,
then over to Qualicum Beach (just before Parksville), where I jumped
onto the North Island Highway. That road is excellent - a real super
highway, all the way to Campbell River, where you have to go west
again for an hour and a half to Gold River. From Gold River, it was
another hour and a half to get to Tahsis. That bit of road is pretty
dusty with some rough sections.
CLICK
HERE for map courtesy of Alice Thompson: Realator in Tahsis.
Between Campbell River and Gold River, is the spectacular Strathcona
Park, where there is a protected herd of Roosevelt Caribou. It is
a Provincial Park.
There are also other large mammals, such as the cougar, wolf and
bear.
No wonder old Rocky was looking a little nervous as he smelled his
way around the park.
The views along the road were outstanding, and I just couldn't
help myself. It took me forever to get to Gold River, and the light
was fading fast. I decided I would sleep there for the night, and
ride out to Tahsis in the morning.
In the fading light, the sun managed to illuminate just the tops
of the mountains along the road.
Once in Gold River, I stayed at the Gold River Chalet, where this
very kind family, not only gave me a room, but invited me for dinner,
seeing as nothing was open in town.
Hon, Wingwing, Cherry, Cammy; My hosts at Gold River.
A few years ago, Hon and his wife purchased the Gold River Chalet,
in partnership with another Vancouver family, and the two take turns
coming up to run the business.
While I was there, I met many American fishermen, who come up every
year for the salmon run. Hon, they told me, looks after all their
needs during their stay. The group I met, were a very satisfied bunch,
and the room I stayed in was clean and comfortable. The services they
offer their guests are perfect.Click
Here for more.
Logging operations opened the territory to tourism.
In the morning, I took to the infamous Tahsis road, and after an hour
and a half, I arrived in Tahsis, no worse for wear. Much of the road
is oiled now, and some big sections are paved. They tell me that the
entire road surface will be paved in a few years.
Many of the mountain tops are still covered in snow. Along the side
of the road is a crystal clear stream. It looks cold and inviting
for me, cause my windows are closed to keep the dust out, and it's
hot in my car. Finally, I see the sign for Tahsis.. I made it.
This is the greeting you receive when you enter the
village.
Tahsis is the location that Captain Cook, Captain Quadra and Captain
Vancouver met with Chief Maquinna in 1792 and began negotiations on
the Nootka Convention, which led to the founding of the province of
British Columbia.
More
on the history of Tahsis Here.
Many activities are promoted for the visitor, whale
watching, camping, and kayaking are a few.
The Chamber of Commerce (Village of Tahsis and Tahsis Economic
Development Society) has worked hard to help the community discover
the benefits of tourism in the wake of the economic hard times that
befell the town when the mill shut down a few years ago. The town
went from a population of about 2,000 to under 500 residents, overnight.
This development was devastating, but the people who stayed on, are
energetic and full of hope for the future of their community. The
real estate in recent months, is going crazy, as people discover the
bargains in this seaside town; notably dozens of American fishermen,
who have been buying up the bargains!
You
can find information about Tahsis Real Estate here.
This is the huge concrete floor, where the mill once stood by the
harbour.
More
on Tahsis Real business opportunities Here.
I drove by the site of the former mill that employed almost everyone
in the village, and I could almost feel the sadness it must have caused
the locals. Many families were uprooted when the mill closed, but
the company helped out where they could, and many of the families
have still kept in touch, and share the happy memories of the good
years.
Judging by the action at the Westview Marina, the town
is doing well!
I drove down to the marina to meet Jim, my fishing
guide, and Alice, his lovely partner. Alice is the towns only resident
real estate person, and has her hands full with selling houses and
organizing new developments. We enjoyed a great lunch on the waterfront,
and I soaked in the afternoon sunshine. Alice reminded me that I was
here to relax after all.. so I tried : 'Work Mode Off!'
At this busy marina, dozens of fishing boats line up to gas up in
the morning, and the fishermen take turns in the afternoon and evening,
cleaning their fish at the stainless steel tables provided for that
purpose on the wharf. The food in the floating restaurant is delicious,
and the camaraderie between boaters, makes the mood on the docks,
like a big party. Everyone seems to be on holiday, and spirits are
high.
I stayed right next door to this home on the crest
of the valley wall. The view of mountains, the forests, and the Tahsis
Inlet was outstanding.
The
name of this house is "Victoria View" and you can see more
pictures here
This is my million dollar morning view!
I went up to my house on the hill, threw my pack on the bed, and
sat on the deck with a tall cool drink. The vista before me was incredible.
From my deck they tell me, it's possible to see sea lions, seals,
fishing boats, mountains, majestic forests, and the occasional whale;
all I was missing was a pair on binoculars.
I went to bed early, because I knew I had to get up before five
am, for my special fishing charter! I couldn't wait.
Early morning light on the harbour.
At 5 am, I met Jim at the dock. There were fishermen slipping out
silently from every direction, a fleet of fifty would be my guess.
Others would be heading out from other moorings and other villages
up and down the inlet.
Rocky wants to come.
Alice kindly offered to babysit the Rockster for the day. Jim started
the old V8 engine, and cast off the lines. We were off for a fishing
adventure, finally. I looked forward to a big fish. Later, Alice told
me that Rocky was very well behaved, and almost as cute as a cat the
whole day. Yes, Alice and Jim are cat people, and so is Rocky.
Captain Jim does the work he loves.
Hey, can you imagine a better job than this? You get paid to ride
around in your boat all day, every day, and catch fish! For Jim, it's
a dream come true. He's been in Tahsis for over three years, previosly
worked as a fishing guide in Vancouver BC, and for Eagle Point Lodge
in northern BC; He's no greenhorn at this game.
Ling cod have big heads, bulging eyes, and a huge mouth;
sounds like me.
We headed out the inlet, and as we went, Jim pointed out different
historical facts. We went past one native residential school, that
is now used for something; a weather station? A Fisheries Office?
We have the hammer down, and the boat runs smoothly
on the smooth early morning surface. To push this twenty four footer
out to sea and back, will take about 200 liters of gas, at a buck
a litre, that will cost Jim around 200.cnd.
The DOF cruiser pulls alongside for an inspection.
Jim was getting the cannon balls down to 25 and 45 feet respectably,
and getting out the gear, when this boat pulled alongside. Although
Jim didn't know these particular DOF officers, they seemed to respect
that he was a licensed charter operator, and simply talked about the
weather for a minute or two.
"There's only us out here", they called out over the
engine noise, "We have about forty of our other crews out
on the Fraser River right now, so we don't have much left for the
west coast". The officer sounded apologetic. They would probably
like to have a stronger presence in Tahsis to enforce the rules.
The DFO's main concern is to check on the commercial fishing boats
working in the region.
Captain Jim is a volounteer on the sports advisory board, and tells
me the salmon stocks are slated to be excellent for the next 4 to
5 years.. as far ahead as DFO projections go.
Jim worked feverishly on the gear after every strike,
so I got to drive!
I think we had about eight strikes during the ten hour day, and we
brought back two salmons, one 21 pounder and one 22 pounder. After
taking the photo of the cod, we sent him back to the sea.. He was
too small.
The first strike was on my rod... (well, they were all my rods
I guess, seeing as how I was the only client on the boat...) and
it felt like a locomotive on the end of my line. "Keep the
tip up" yelled Jim as he hoisted the downriggers up in record
time. "Let him run!"
The reel unloaded about a hundred feet of line on the first pull..
That's a good thirty seconds of bzzzzzzzzz... When it finally
stopped, I felt the big boy just shake his head a few times, then
he was off again. The second run was twice the first one. He was headed
back towards land, and I was concerned I may run out of line.
I tried to palm the bottom of the reel while it was screaming, but
it only served to burn two strips into my skin. As soon as he stopped
the second time, I found the crank, and started keeping a bit of tension
on the line. Then I gave him a little pull, to set the hook. Considering
we can no longer have a barb on our hooks, I thought it should be
set into the fish good.
I held the tip of my rod to the sky, and I started to crank on the
reel. It was a steady pressure. After about fifteen seconds of reeling,
I felt the line go limp; no more weight on the end of it. I said so
much to Jim, but he responded, "He's still there, the big
bastard, keep spooling, he's headed towards the boat now!"
I kept reeling, but a few seconds later, I realized there was indeed,
nothing left on the end of the line. After a minute or so, I could
see that the line tip was flying in the wind; no more fish, no more
leader, no more bright green flasher, no more fluorescent hoochie...
and no more fish! Jim then pulled out 30 feet or so of line and cut
it off. "Either he bit it off, or the line had a kink in it
and it just broke." Said Jim.
My second strike was equally disappointing. He gave one short pull,
then I got him up to the boat, Jim said "Now THAT'S a real nice
fish; a thirty pounder for sure!" He grabbed the net while I
kept the line taught. Once the net was right in front of his face,
the old boy just glanced up at us, and spit the hook out with no effort
whatsoever. He gave us a wink, and casually ambled away. I was so
excited, that I almost jumped in after him. He was just so close!
He just sat there in the clear blue salt chuck, and almost asked me
to pick him up with my hands. Jim said "Well, if we caught them
all, these guys wouldn't have any chance at all would they?"
I added "If we caught them all, they'd call this sport 'catching',
instead of 'fishing". We laughed a little, but with big frowns.
By this time, Jim was beginning to have an air of doubt, concerning
my character, and my ability to catch fish. He tried not to show it,
but I could see what he was secretly thinking. "If this guy
doesn't land one today, it won't be my fault. He had his chances that's
for sure".
Then it happened....I caught the biggest fish of my life.
My first big salmon; twenty one pounds!
We had gone out quite far into the chop, probably three or four miles
off of land. Jim spotted a bunch of sea birds floating on the waves.
The fish finder told us there was plenty of small stuff in the water,
plankton or herring or something. Jims thought we should hand out
right on top of it. We had both lines at about twenty five feet down.
On the screen, we could see big fish swimming under the boat.
Suddenly, Jim yells out "Fish On!" I ran back out into the
stern and he says to me "Grab that rod!" Then he says, keep
your tip up and the pressure on, don't let her go slack this time!"
AHA! I thought to myself.. You DID blame me that the big one got
away... you bastard!
But
there was no time for rehashing what someone did or did not say an
hour ago, I had a fish on, and damn it, this one was coming into the
boat and into my freezer.. or my name isn't Zenwaiter!
I pulled the tip of the
rod skyward, and reeled this bad boy in for all that I was worth..
He must be a thirty pounder for sure, I thought to myself. In no time
flat, there he was at the side of the boat. Jim ably scooped his ass
out of the brine and into the boat. We both breathed a sigh of relief.
I got my fish, and we both felt good about it.
The hours slipped by as
the boat started to bounce way up and roll from side to side. "There's
a big wind a blowin' way out there somewhere, and we're getting the
seas from it; probably over there in Japan somewhere." Said
Jim.
Jim asked me if I get
sea sick, and I said, apparently not. The chop was getting worse,
and I ate my delicious roast beef sandwiches without missing a beat.
The ass end of the boat went down down down, and then popped up like
a cork, atop the big swells.
About two hours later,
we went back with all the other boats and joined their flotilla. We
ran close to each other in tight formation. I got another big fish
on, and he ran two times one hundred feet. I lost him way out there.
We came around that same turn exactly at the same place ten minutes
later, and I told Jim that this time, we'd get him into the boat,
Sure enough, the same fish hit the line again, and I handed the rod
to Jim, knowing that he had a better chance of landing it. He did.
Twenty three pounds. He topped me by one lousy pound... the bastard!
Oh well!
Then after telling me
lies for over ten hours, Jim pulled up the rigging, put the rods away,
and wheeled the bow of the old girl away from the sunset. We headed
back into port.
Only a few miles away behind an island, was Luna the tame killer whale.
Can we go see it, I asked. No said Jim, we are all trying to discourage
people from disturbing him. Even though he loves human attention,
it's dangerous for him and for us if we allow him to get too close
to the vessel.
Fishermen are like hunters and even loggers. Although they take from
the sea and the forests, they respect nature, and care about her.
This is the mark of a true sportsman.
Jim has no trouble pulling in the catch of the day; twenty-two pounds!
It took us about an hour to get back in to the docks, we took our
time. Once in, we hauled our catch out of the cooler onto the table.
Jim's filleting knives glistened in the evening sun, and he made quick
work of our fish. Alice came back to greet us, and took this fine
photo. My pride is showing in my smile, but actually, I had very little
to do with this success.
"Jim my friend... You Da Man!"
Jim on the left with 22 pounds, me on the right ; 21.
Jim slices, dices, washes, and packs my prize in a
flash.
That night, Alice invited over a few of her local friends, and prepared
a feast. Jim cooked some salmon that he caught last week, on the bar-b-que.
We all celebrated the salmon run together, and said thank you to Mother
Nature for her bounty.
The next morning, I got itchy feet so I packed up my gear, and headed
to the Cook Shack on the water for breakfast. The views from the table
were out of a movie script.
I dropped in to see Alice and Jim to say thanks. Jim pulled my fish
out of the freezer and wrapped it up tight for me in newsprint. Then
I stuck it all into my sleeping bag, and into the trunk. When I got
home to Vernon 500 miles later, it was still frozen.
I've been eating salmon once every two weeks ever since, and sharing
it with friends. It is truly heavenly.
Thank You to Alice and Jim of Jim's
Fishing Charters in Tahsis.
Let's do all again next year.. eh??
xoxox zw
Did
you read Chapter 1: here
Chapter
2 Here
Jim's
Fishing Charters: Tahsis BC
